I’ve been doing it wrong all this time.
You know the saying that your brows are sisters, not twins? Couldn’t be more true. They may be arched differently, or are of different lengths, heights, or shapes. For me, my brows have always been frustratingly asymmetrical height-wise, with one sitting lower than the other on my face. For some reason, all my attempts to fix them with grooming and brow products never seemed to look quite right.
According to Korean celebrity makeup artist Jung Saem Mool, that’s because I’ve been going about it all wrong.
First groom your eyebrows, which is admittedly easier said than done. Jung Saem Mool delicately and professionally trims her model’s brows with a curved pair of safety scissors. I’m still trying to do this without snipping off half my brows, to be honest. Oh well, hair regrows and that’s what practice is for.
And remember that golden rule that you should never pluck the hair above your brows for fear of looking overplucked and unnatural? Into the bin with that. Because she trims the tops of her brows and the result is suddenly instantly neater and more groomed. You can use an electric trimmer as she does, or a Japanese face razor.
Now, imagine a straight line that starts directly above your nostril and goes upwards to your brow. This is where you’ll want to start drawing.
Identify the sparse area where hair is lacking that causes your brow to sit lower than the other brow. She eyeballs it, but I’ll probably use a ruler the first few times to get a feel for it! This is where you’ll want to draw your strokes.
Now here’s the kicker: like me, you might instinctively draw your strokes outwards towards your ear. But If you’re drawing on the lower brow, angle your strokes upward, pushing lightly up and down with the tip of your brow pencil.
Now for the higher brow. The sparse area is likely going to be below your brow, so fill that in to match the other brow.
If you’re drawing on the brow that sits higher than its sister, angle your strokes up and out in short diagonals, flowing the direction of your hair as it grows along the natural curve of your brow bone.
To finish, fill in the tails of your brows with lighter but broader strokes. And you’re done! Remember: identify the sparse areas of your brows and fill it in using the right strokes depending if it’s the lower or higher brow. Short, light strokes are the way to go to make it as natural as possible.